In my previous article I wrote about the timeline and history of Lasers, if you have not read it and have some time on your hands, it is quite interesting to see that lasers are not as “new” as we may think they are.
Cosmetics have been around for many years, today we have the privilege of many different types of products, not to mention the amazing technology that gets used on a daily basis. It is important to know the difference between a cosmetic product and a medical cosmeceutical product, to ensure you know what it is you are looking for, but more so to understand how each of these will affect your skin and what you are spending your well earned money on.
So in a nutshell, the main difference you need to know is that a cosmetic product has not been formulated to have the ability to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, whereas a medical cosmeceutical product has gone through many tests and processes and clinical trials to ensure that each ingredient has been formulated specifically to not only penetrate and improve the deeper layers of the skin but also ensuring that they work synergistically!
Cosmetics in the Ancient World. Yes the Ancient world…
Cosmetics dates back as far as 10,000 BC. Cosmetics were an integral part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Men and women in Egypt used scented oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin and mask body odor. Oils and creams were used for protection against the hot Egyptian sun and dry winds.
Myrrh, thyme, marjoram, chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and almond oil provide the basic ingredients of most perfumes Egyptians used in religious rituals. Did you know that Lactic Acid was first discovered by Cloepatra, she would bathe in milk, the lactic acid peels we use today were based on the theory that that was why her skin was always youthful and soft.
4000 BC, the Egyptian women would apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and malachite (bright green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for colour and definition. They use kohl (a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper, different coloured copper ores, lead, ash, and ochre) to adorn the eyes in an almond shape. Today we know, thanks to technology and research, that lead is NOT good for you! However as this stands, did you know that lipstick still contains lead?
3000 BC, The Chinese stained their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg. The colours are used as a representation of social class: Chou dynasty royals wore gold and silver, with subsequent royals would wear black or red. Lower classes were forbidden to wear bright colours on their nails. Today, we all wear all sorts of colours, with no relation to any class, thank goodness that died down!
In 1000 BC, Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion crude lipstick out of ochre clays laced with red iron. Is it not funny how back then, people wanted to have less of a tan whereas nowadays, that’s unfortunately not the case. People are always after that tanned skin, not realising or being concerned of the aging that they are causing with it. Never mind the increased risk in skin cancers.
In Rome, in the years of 100 AD, people would put barley flour and butter on their pimples and sheep fat and blood on their fingernails for polish, not sure how well that worked, but hey they did it. In addition, mud baths come into vogue, and some Roman men would dye their hair blonde.
300-400 AD: Henna is used in India both as a hair dye and in mehndi, an art form in which complex designs are painted on the hands and feet using a paste made from the henna plant, especially before a Hindu wedding. Henna is also used in some North African cultures, and is still seen today!
Today wearing make-up is something of the norm, it is best advised to ensure that you use a good quality product as to not clog your pores, fortunately today there is a medical foundation called Lycogel, this has the ability to allow your skin to breath as it is formulated in such a manor that it forms a gauze like structure over the skin, and does not irritate or damage the skin. This product however is not easy to find and also costs a lot more than your average foundation.
Besides, if you are to be spending money on makeup and skin treatments, why not invest in a foundation that will protect, nourish and allow your skin to breath. For those of you who are considering moving over to this, it can be found in medical aesthetic clinics. Best advise – If you cannot afford this, wear a light tinted moisturiser that is formulated correctly and allow your skin to breath, if you can go without make-up just DO IT!
So let’s skip forward, as we would be here for a looooong time going through all the ages… Besides I don’t want to bore you, but inform you with some exciting information!
SO, let’s look at when cosmeceuticals were discovered.
Dr. Albert Kligman (M.D., PhD) is considered to be a founder of the cosmeceuticals field. He was a prolific scientist who spent many years studying the anti-aging effects of tretinoin and retinol.
The world knows of him by his path-breaking research and invention of the molecule “tretinoin,” which he discovered and patented first for the treatment of acne and later for photoaging. Prof. Kligman, in his larger-than-life career spanning over 60 years, is known for his research and expertise in acne, rosacea, contact dermatitis and cutaneous toxicology amongst others.
Many will be surprised to know that common phenomena and terms like the “human hair cycle,” “telogen effluvium” and “hot comb alopecia” were introduced by him in 1959, 1961 and 1968, respectively. So hair loss is something of the past too, as annoying as we may know it to be, at least we know they have been working on our current methods since then…
Along with Dr. J.E. Fulton and Dr. G. Plewig, he developed the Tretinoin treatment for acne that is still in use in current-day dermatological practice. Have you used or come across a product called “Kligmans”? Well, this is where that name and research was founded.
The study was truly considered groundbreaking, as prior to Dr. Kligman’s research, the benefits of these active ingredients for skin were unknown. It was following such research that Dr. Kligman started to call skincare products with therapeutic benefits as “cosmeceuticals”.
Today, the Kligman’s cream is used across the board of Dermatologists and Skin Specialists, to treat and correct hormonal pigmentation, anti-aging, and sun damaged skin. As this is an intense medical product, it needs to be treated with respect, so getting the correct guidance, usage advice and the correct skin analysis is vital to ensure that you get the true benefits of this amazing product.
In 1974 the discovery of alpha hydroxy acids for exfoliation and skin rejuvenation was discovered by Eugene Van Scott, M.D., and Ruey Yu, Ph.D.. Through their research on inherited dry skin, medically termed ichthyosis, they collaborated for twenty years researching and developing AHA products prior to founding The NeoStrata Company in 1988!
Yes, you read right – Neostarta was founded in 1988, and they were the founders of AHA!
Several years later, Sheldon Pinnell, M.D., developed and evaluated various forms of topical vitamin C and showed these products could be used for photoprotection as well as skin rejuvenation. Did you know that Sheldon Pinnell, M.D, was the founder of SkinCeuticals?
SkinCeuticals along with Neostrata are some of the world’s most leading cosmeceutical companies today!
As my clients are aware, I am quite the mix and match type of cosmeceutical consumer, my reason for this is that, if you look at each of these product companies, and their founders, you will notice that each of them have specialised in something first. Neostrata specialised and discovered AHA’s whereas SkinCeuticals specialised and founded anti-oxidants such as vitamin C. When you combine, and trust me I love to combine products and treatments, you are treating your skin at different layers, with different cosmeceutical products that are treating your specific concerns, and therefore you treat more than one concern and get an even better, quicker overall result!
So, when you provide your skin with antioxidants, you stabilize your skin cells, thus allowing them to heal, and function as normally as possible as you are getting rid of the free radicals that age, damage and destroy healthy cells.
We all have a natural desquamation process, what is this?
Well one of the reasons why we age is that our cell turnover rate is slowed down drastically as each year passes our age, in order to enhance and improve this process we need to help the skin’s exfoliation process (desquamation). By applying AHA’s we increase the cell turnover by removing a layer of the dead skin cells.
This is how I would describe this process to my clients, when we remove a layer of skin cells from the skin’s surface, the skin feels “naked” and therefore replenishes the lost cells by stimulating your natural cell production as well as collagen. Remember guys, your skin is an organ, we need to nourish, treat, stimulate and protect it! There are only two of the types of amazing ingredients one should consider using in your daily routine of skin health!
Speak to one of our specialists about how we can help you fall in love with your skin again.
Written By Skin & Laser Clinician Angie Chaplin
For as long as Angie can remember she has always been passionate about the Skin Care and Aesthetic industry. While completing her International Degree, she worked at various clinics to build as much experience and additional knowledge as possible. Once Angie had completed her International Degree in Somatology in 2011, she specialized in Aesthetic and Laser treatments. She has been privileged to work closely with Doctors and Dermatologists throughout her career, and has had the blessing of providing training for other Aesthetic Somatologists as well as Medical Practitioners within the industry. Angie has also worked with a large variety of lasers and machines, and believes that a combination of different treatments and products are always the key to quickly achieve optimal results.