What causes blackheads?
A quick explanation: Blackheads and whiteheads are the building blocks for acne. They occur when dead skin, debris, and sebum (a.k.a. oil) get trapped in your pores. The difference between blackheads and whiteheads is that blackheads are open to the air which makes them turn black and whiteheads generally have a thin cover over them and are not exposed to the air, so they remain white. These clogged pores attract acne-causing bacteria, and that’s when you’ll get those papules, pustules, nodules and cysts—what we all know as pimples.
What are the best ingredients for treating blackheads?
My recommendation would be using products with chemical exfoliation (what we call keratolytic) properties that will really help break down whatever is clogging your pores and exfoliate the skin.
The best thing that you can do to get rid of blackheads is combo therapy. Combining prescription Tretinoin at night, a salicylic acid containing product and regular chemical peels, will give you the best results.
My two favourite ingredients for exfoliation are salicylic acid and retinol.
They’re the ones I recommend most often to my patients for preventing blackheads.
Salicylic acid is ideal for treating non-inflammatory acne because it’s able to deeply penetrate the skin and clear out all the sebum, dead skin cells, and bacteria that’s clogging our pores. Salicylic acid breaks down the materials that clog pores: excess oil and dead skin cells. Many people are sensitive to salicylic acid and you may not be able to use it more than once every few days. If you continue to react to it, discontinue use.
Retinol / Tretinoin is great for two reasons: It promotes cell turnover, which helps unclog our pores, and by clearing debris from our pores, retinol ensures that other helpful, acne-fighting ingredients can reach deep into our skin. Retinol is the best way to clear clogged pores and prevent blackheads from forming. Prescription-strength formulations are the most effective. Retinol works on receptors in the skin to regulate skin turnover and increase the efficiency of dead skin removal Sometimes there is noticeable peeling, but after regular use, the side effects lessen, and the skin appears more radiant and clearer.
CHERIE’S TIP: Tretinoin / Retinols are extremely effective at giving you a glowing, smooth complexion, but they can be a bit strong and may irritate certain skin types. Do a patch test first and speak with your clinician to see what the right treatment method is for your skin.
A Chemical peel
A series of in-office superficial chemical peels is often quite helpful as an adjunct to at-home use of anti-acne topical medications. A peel is a great way to “increase cell turnover and prevent blocked pores, which help to leave the skin clear and decongested. Common peeling agents used for acne include maximal strength salicylic acid and Retinol. Your skincare professional will be best able to determine which peeling agent bests suits your needs and complements your at-home regimen. Superficial peels can also be helpful for smoothing mildly crepey skin and very fine lines. Make sure to seek consultation and treatment by an experienced clinician. This treatment method may be especially helpful if you’re looking for antiaging benefits too.
Tips for prevention
Deep blackheads can take time to remove safely and effectively. Once you’ve got the gunk out, you’ll want to use some of the below suggestions to help prevent them from coming back.
Use noncomedogenic products. Noncomedogenic is code for “non-pore-clogging.” Also look for oil-free sunscreens and lotions to help prevent clogged pores. The right cleanser and exfoliator may do little good if you don’t use noncomedogenic makeup and face products. Not all products are noncomedogenic, so you’ll have to read labels
Don’t overuse acne products. I will say that sometimes using too many products too often or too vigorously can sometimes promote blackheads and whiteheads. Scrubbing your face too much will make your acne redder and more irritated, so if you have a lot of active breakouts, it’s best to stay away from harsh scrubs with beads or granules in them. Not only will they cause more redness and irritation but rubbing your skin really hard and forcefully can actually cause more skin to get trapped within our pores and can actually make acne worse.
Eat a healthy diet. While greasy, fatty foods aren’t direct causes of acne, eating a balanced diet is important for your overall skin health. Drinking plenty of water can also help balance out sebum and aid in skin cell turnover.
Remove makeup before bed. At the end of a long day, the last thing you may want to do is to take off your makeup. However, sleeping with your makeup on is asking for more blackheads. If left on overnight, even noncomedogenic makeup can clog your pores. Plus, eye makeup left on overnight can lead to eye irritations or infections.
Be sure your hands and nails are clean. Keeping your nails clean can help minimise dirt and oil transfer.
Wash your pillowcases and bedding. This should be done once a week to get rid of any dirt and oil in your sheets.
What other things might be affecting my skin?
Also, be sure if you are adding or removing products from your routine that you do so one product at a time. That way, you can really find what is actually working for you. Pause when you’re washing and treating your face in the morning and evening. If your products are burning or stinging or causing more irritation, that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re working… it could mean you’re having an adverse reaction. If you’re unsure about a product, doing a spot test is really helpful—apply the product in a small area on your neck or the side of your face to see how your skin reacts!
Should I pick them myself?
You can get blackhead extractions from your skincare professional (something I do for many of my patients!). And yes, you can do this at home, although I generally don’t recommend this. Picking at and manipulating your skin can cause inflammation, irritation, and even infections and scarring. So fight the urge and leave it to the pros!
The bottom line
There is no instant fix for blackheads and whiteheads. Some people are luckier when it comes to acne, but generally being more or less prone to acne comes down to genetics and hormones. I know acne and skin issues can have a real impact on one’s self-esteem, so it’s our job as skincare professionals to help you treat this condition to the best of our ability and make sure we can get you comfortable in your own skin. With the right knowledge of why you’re getting those blackheads, you can hopefully save some time/money and find some products that will improve your skin!
Recommended Products
- Face wash – IS clinical Cleansing complex
Deep-cleanses skin and pores without drying / Resurfaces, smooths and softens / Paraben-free.
- Night Cream- Tretinoin
- Clarifying pads with Salicylic acid
Speak to one of our specialists about how we can help with your skin.
Written By Skin & Laser Specialist Cherie Cochrane
Cherie specialises in the aesthetic side of Atlantic Dermatology and Laser. With over a decade of experience in skin, laser and aesthetic treatments, a results-driven approach and over 6 years as a business owner, she has created two successful aesthetic businesses.
Cherie has recently moved to Cape Town and is a proven professional with a results-driven approach. Cherie has trained Doctors, Nurses, Therapists and Professionals to become leading experts within their chosen profession and won the prestigious international “Best Results” Laser competition by Sciton, competing against the top 200 clinics from around the world.
After having your first consultation with Cherie, you will leave here educated and with a proper plan to get the best results for your skin